Broken action parts

Parts like hammer, trigger, sear, cylinder stop and connecting parts can break or wear out. On guns like European pinfire revolvers the parts are often made of soft, not hardened steel and either bend or wear out. The parts of American guns are often very hard and will break in stead of bend.
There are a lot of ways to repair them. Bigger parts can be welded up but when the parts are smaller I rather to hard solder a new part of steel in. The steel I use in those cases is a part of a cobalt drill bit, a piece of a lath cutting tool or a piece of a feeler gauge set. All strong and hard materials. Hard soldering is in most cases strong enough as long as it is done with some attention.

Here some examples of small repairs. Again, more ways or repairing something are possible.

 

Broken action parts of a small American .32RF revolver

Trigger tip. (the part that is called the sear). This side of the trigger locks in grooves on the hammer and holds it in cocked position.  
It is cracked but not broken off. (Take the dimensions before taking of the tip, take the form with a piece of paper and pencil) First I grounded a large part off. From a lath cutting tool I took a piece off and grounded a little in shape. Then hard solder and grind to the right form. After grinding roughly use diamond files and after that water proof sandpaper to get the wished finish. If something is broken and the right form is not known take little by little off, trying each time if it works.
Cylinder stop. When cocking one side (the follower?) is moved by a small pin (cam) on the hammer and so unlocking the cylinder. When firing the hammer falls and the small pin goes past the cylinder stop because the pin has an enquired surface. Both pin and follower were broken.
First I grounded the left over of the small pin and made a hole on it's place as much as possible in this hard metal. Then I took a piece of the right diameter drill bit and soldered it in. After that grind it to the right length and grind an angular surface to it. The follower is made of a thin feeler from a gauge set. Again solder it in, best with a angled cut so the solder surface is longer. Then test everything which means assemble, test, disassemble, correct parts, assemble test etc. etc.

Cracked tip of the trigger. When simply solder this it will crack again.
New piece soldered in and roughly grinded in shape
Worn away pin.
New pin, angle surface not yet grinded
Cylinderstop with new section. Not pritty but it works
Broken pin

Broken pin for mounting the cylinder hand of a Colt 1849

The pin was broken out of the hammer and was repaired before by hard soldering but not very good. When one simply solder a pin on the base back on all forces will be applied on the solder connection. Repair is simple: drill a hole on the place the pin comes. Make a pin from a drill bit and put it in the hole. Now solder.
In this way the forces applied on the pin will be brought over to the hammer by the pin itself and the solder only holds it on it's place.

Unfortunately I made little pictures (I probably wanted to test the colt that bad) but it is very the same as the repair described by the .32RF revolver.

Link between hammer and hammer spring of a M&B front loading revolver

This small link connects the mainspring with the hammer in a way the force is always in the right direction. S&W still uses this construction for their modern revolvers. It broke because the material is to hard (and old) and very tiny. Both sides were in the gun. I could make a complete new one but that is a lot of work and should be done of strong, hard and tough material. I chose to only make the broken side and solder it together with a angled connection. For the right dimensions and to hold past in place during soldering I made a small mould. Very simple from a piece of aluminium and a aluminium pin made to the right diameter.
When soldering the solder won't attach to the aluminium, don't make the mould from steel or brass!

Broken link.
Partly made new piece.
Parts in place on mould.
Soledered, not yet grinded to the right form.
Link placed in the hammer. Tested and it works fine.

More examples soon.